Electronic Ignition

Hands up all those who own a 4 cylinder car with a 1500 (Lucas 45D4) distributor on it. Ah quite a few. Now put your hands up if you would like electronic ignition but haven't got £70 odd quid burning a hole in your pocket. If you have more time than money - read on. . . . . .

The Lucas 45D4 distributor identified by the square sided distributor cap (as fitted to Spitfires, Dolomite 1500 and 1300's) can be converted to contactless - magnetic reluctor, electronic ignition simply and ludicrously cheaply.

Note, if you have a 25D4 distributor you can change it for a 45D4 and carry out the modifications and retain the original timing setting.

Go to your local breakers yard and find one of the now plentiful Montego/Maestro 1.3 or pre D reg 1.6's. Remove the remarkably similar distributor, small black ignition module / black box (located on the bulkhead next to the coil) to be on the safe side take the coil and black aluminium mounting plate. Don't pay too much - £5 total I paid. Remember there are loads of others. Click here for pictures

So what do you do when you get home? Get a vice, small hammer, junior hacksaw, a bradawl or similar thin, long thing and a small philips screwdriver.

What you are aiming to do is swap over the upper spindle (the bit you attach the rotor arm to) and the base plate.

Remove the vacuum advance. Remove the circlip, washer and rubber 'o' ring / doo dah. Pull off the rotor and plastic clip and keep safe. Undo the two screws and take out the base plate. (Yes it is a strong magnet isn't it?) "Gently" clamp the spindle in the vice after unclipping the centrifugal advance springs (doesn't matter if you bend them).

Using the bradawl or similar object tap out the lower spindle from inside the upper spindle. Now bin the remains of the Maestro dizzy. Repeat this operation with the Triumph distributor. Being careful not to damage the springs / bob weights.

When you have emptied the internals, you will require the hacksaw. The hole that the low tension wire used, needs to be made into a 'u'-shape - like the Maestro's. This will make the blue plastic wire guard fit neatly in position (Fig 1)

That may sound complicated and a bit Heath Robinson but when you try, you will catch my drift.

Now re-assemble the Maestro internals into the Triumph distributor - don't set the upper spindle 180 degrees out and don't forget to replace the little plastic collar that holds the two spindle halves together. Make sure the advance mechanisim is well lubricated and works freely. Set the rotor gap to 10 thou' by slackening the two screws and moving the pickup around. If you get stuck, the Haynes manual for the Maestro / Montego will give guidance.

The diagram is self explanatory. I mentioned at the start to take the black plate and coil. The plate is a neat way of mounting the ignition module and coil together. I prefer to use the 12v 'electronic' type coil.

This is less likely to overheat due to the higher currents. Cars with a ballast resistor should by-pass it to make use of this coil.

What's left? Reconnect the vacuum Advance (re-use the Triumph rotor arm and cap). Open up the plug gaps into the 30's and start it. Timing is trial and error - suffice it to say, just keep it out of 'pinking'.

Benefits - the lack of timing scatter and points bouce is immediately noticeable ie, 'restored' power.

Reduced maintenance and lower emissions - 2.2% on a 100,000 mile 1500 had the MOT tester going!

That surely should give the 'green lobby' less ammo. Part throttle economy goes up too - 4 mpg on a 1500 Dolomite.

Just about any Leyland 4 cylinder car can benefit too. Mini's, Metro's, Maxi's, Marina's even MGB's.

So, get down to that scrap yard and upgrade your classic for just over the price of a set of points and a condensor!

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